Local molecular biologist turns a staple into a celebration of African culture one ice cream scoop at a time.
Pap. Sadza. Ugali. Nshima. Call it what you want, but Africa’s quintessential staple has hardly ever been elevated to the status of fine cuisine. And that’s precisely why molecular biologist turned cultural rehabilitator, Tapiwa Guzha, is on a mission to change that.
His unusual medium of choice: ice cream!
In this week’s episode of Nederburg’s new breakout food and wine series, I’ll Bring The Wine, host Karen Dudley travels to Observatory, Cape Town in search of the man behind the only truly African Ice Cream shop on the continent: Tapi Tapi.
As the episode reveals, Tapiwa’s vision is not merely to serve delicious ice-cream, but in so doing, he aims to change identities, restore Africa’s self-esteem, and refresh long-forgotten memories.
That’s a big weight to put on a small scoop – but then again, Tapiwa’s servings are anything but ordinary. With his deep understanding and appreciation for Africa’s grains and cultures, coupled with a PhD in molecular biology, expect inspired flavours like rooibos infused with imphepho smoke, roasted sorghum, and Amagwinya (vetkoek).
In his own words: “The reason I chose food is because it can be a source of judgement and exclusion, but it is also a means to celebrate, connect and bring people together. And everybody loves ice-cream, right?”
Indeed! Yet few would be brave enough to confidently pair it with wine. Host of the show, Karen Dudley, is faced with this daunting task, and yet (with the help of Nederburg’s winemaker) brings a Rosé that pairs beautifully with Tapiwa’s most ambitious plate yet: a gastronomic embodiment of Africa’s cultures and grains, flawlessly presented on an edible calabash.
“Tapiwa is an oasis,” muses Karen. “He is a man who is making such an impact… using ice-cream to communicate something so much deeper. It’s not an exaggeration to say he’s ushering in a new dawn – quietly leading us toward a completely new (or perhaps long-forgotten) understanding of black identity.”
Forget New York’s iconic Milk Bar — Tapi Tapi is where it’s at.
GET STUCK IN…
Check out all 4 episodes so far on the Nederburg YouTube channel and be sure to tune in for the final episode in January 2022, when Karen travels deep into the Karoo to rediscover what local treasures lie just beneath the surface.
